There’s a very expensive restaurant called Inotecca, about $400/person, not worth it. Make sure you go to Villa San Michele in Fiesole, in the hills, either lunch or dinner although late lunch is beautiful on the terrazzo. Designed by some guy Michelangelo, don’t know his last name. Don’t forget Harry’s Bar in Venice & Florence.
Pandemonio, Via Del Leone, my favorite restaurant anywhere. Mama’s at the door, Papa & nephew in the kitchen. At the end of the night, if you live that long, everyone sits at the same table and drinks Grappa. They have a great wine list with 20 something Chianti Classico’s and great Brunello’s, but the house wine is cheap & delicious. My friend Gene was there last summer called me & put Momma on the phone. She started crying. Didn’t I pay the check?

More restaurants in Firenze!

Smart Set:

  • Buca Lapi—Busy, Buzzy, Convivial & Fun. Sit in the main salon with its roof plastered with antique travel posters. Excellent Ribolita and Steak a la Fiorentina.
  • BSJ—Chic contemporary by the Ferragamo designer Mr. Bonan .
  • Fuor D’Aqua—Best seafood in town.
  • Cantinetta Antinori—White jacketed waiters and great Tagliata.


  • Camillo—Locals & touristas love it. Book in advance.
  • Garga—Chef/owner Gara painted the murals.
  • La Giostra—Touristy, cheesy & fun wear your maternity pants, huge portions.
  • Zibibio—Just outside town with a delightful view of the olive groves.
  • Omero—Perched atop Arcetri, where Galileo wished upon a star. Book upstairs table.
  • Ruggerio—Outstanding home style food, (it’s an Italian home though). Must have a resv.
  • Il Rifrullo—Great vibe in a great neighborhood, San Niccolo. Humming cocktail hour.


  • Caffe Italiano—Take a 14th century palazzo & add great pizza.
  • Da Sostanza—Same menu since 1869 (it’s a little stained). Famous Butter fried chicken.
  • Alla Vecchia Bettolla—50’s oak & tile farmhouse, try Penne ala Bettola.
  • Florence is tricky on Sundays, try Camillo & La Giostra.

Wine Bars:

  • Pitti Gola E Cantina—Opposite the Pitti Palace. I drink there & think about waiting on line to get in but never do.
  • Verrazzano—Bustling Cantinetta & they’ll ship wine home.
  • Enotecca Beccofino—Riverside view terrace, wine bar & restaurant.
  • Whew!!! Basta.